So if you draw 40 amps from an inverter welder pushing 200 welding amps or 40 amps from a transformer welder pushing 110 amps the draw is still the same 40 amps. That is independent of welder - that only depends on the load on the circuit. ![]() That is a fantastic plan for me.įor what it is worth, the question in this thread was on how much more welding time I could get on 10 more amps of breaker rating if 30 amps isn't enough = as in if a 30 amp breaker eventually goes the longer it takes to pop the closer the load is to the rated load (in contrast - the faster it pops the further above the rated load). When that time comes the Idealarc will still be around as a backup. Should have just gone with an inverter welder, IMO.Īt some point I will. If I can run 1/8" rods at 90-120 amps that is going to cover 98-99% of what I weld, and envision welding in the future. I also have an amp meter I can put inline on the welder power supply (240v side) that will show, hopefully, a better representation of what the current draw is through the line (I am not sure what the reaction time is of the meter response, so I am not sure if it is going to be a real accurate reading or not). I will try a few rods back-to-back when I get a chance and see what happens. I burned a whole 1/8" 6011 at about 115-120 amps without the breaker going. Though, I am surprised I even got a 4" bead. 175 welding amps isn't going to be less than 1/2 of the input amps at only 25 less welding amps. I suppose that makes sense if 200 welding amps is 70 amps input. Yeah, that was too hot for the rod, but I was just burning at that amperage to see what would happen. So far I have made it about 4" with a 5/32" 6011 and 175 amps before the breaker went. You can check out the thread I have in the Lincoln forum for details on the machine/project. I don't see getting up that high, but I could be in to the 200's. The machine supposedly will do 300a on AC. I'm sure that will give me a better idea of what the "cut off" point is on welding amperage to circuit breaker popping. I can run a few higher amperage settings and cook come rods just to see what happens. I am hoping to have the machine ready to reassemble by then - if not already together. Wednesday I get a paint order in, supposedly. The machine is going through a restoration at the moment so I can't fire it up right now. However, I haven't run a long bead with it, either. I fired it up with a 1/8" 6011 and 110 amps or so - no trouble at all. The 240v machine is an old Idealarc 250, round top. The circuit feeds in to a garage and I have run 120v loads off it - welder and air compressor, namely. So it is used for multiple things, but never simultaneously. Edit - one 120/240v outlet, nothing else between the outlet and the breaker. Most breakers are delayed and will take the short surge amps rating. I would design the electrical circuit for full load amps. The back of your welder should give full load amps and surge amps. ![]() The other question is what welder setting is your 30 amp breaker tripping? If you are not maxed out then you might need more than a 40 amp circuit. Personally I would use 8 gauge wire on a circuit for 40 amps. I know for welder circuits they take into account for the duty cycle and sometimes use smaller wire than if it were a steady amp draw. In practice, does that work? Who's run in to this that might be able to shed some light on it?What you say is true but you need to have wire rated for 40 amps otherwise you have made it possible for the wire to overheat and could start a fire. In that case, my theory says 10 more amps would curb the trips pretty easy. ![]() Whereas after running a bead for a while that would suggest the current is just tickling the upper limit. If the breaker trips immediately it would obviously be too weak. If a 30a breaker trips eventually while welding - how much extra would a 40a, an extra 10a rating, get?
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